The Merchants of Chaos and Cacophony: Letters from Eko

Central  Lagos (Eko to the initiate) is a theatre of chaos and cacophony masterfully interwoven into an  unending opera of commerce.

Eko for show !
Central Mosque
Danfo Bus stop !


From the Thrift collector to the truck pusher, the pure water seller, the second handle clothes dealer and fishmonger, they all know their lines, places and roles in the grand scheme of things. Each tries to attract potential customers with bespoke calls and impromptu adverts. Reeling out in seconds the name and benefits of their products. Each one touted as best and second to none as they run through their sales pitch.

Warring Warren of Market stalls and Shops


Some Businesses even hire amplifiers and loud speakers, with Disc jockeys, comperes, scary clowns, disheveled cartoon characters and feisty female dancers to enliven the promotional roadshow.


All diffused in a synchro-chaotic cacophony of osmotic economics and bargains gymnastics.(whatever that means).


Don’t forget the generators that guzzle foul-fuel and bellow smokey tunes at one another as if embroiled in a combustible shouting contest of I pass my neighbor! All adding to the intolerable decibels that leave one temporarily deaf. Even half an hour after your shopping is done and you’ve exited the scene for the respite of one of those air-conditioned eateries nearby. That conveniently dot the busy marina hemmed in by grimy asphalt and lugubrious skyscrapers.

Marina, Lagos


It is amazing any form of trade could be transacted amid all this. But it does. Hundreds and Thousands of sales. In staggering multiples of the number of shoppers and traders combined.


At first the deluge of discordant sounds and the chaotic movements seem to be locked in an eternal struggle for prominence. You are overwhelmed. Everything appears confusing and disorienting. Until you begin to focus and hone in on your purpose and target. A new belt or pair of shoes perhaps. Then you begin to deconstruct the bedlam into its constituent parts. You identify a shop and a complementary trader.  At that point all else becomes white noise and  unsynchronized swimming. You approach and the trader welcomes… You can finally allocate sound and meaning  to his lips and hand movements. Offers and counter-offers are tendered. A consensus is reached and a sale is made.

Yellow Taxi! Yellow Mini-Bus


O ye! O ye!  All ye Jobberman. Journeyman. Petty trader. Importer-Exporter. Banker. Security Guard. FX dealer. Insurance broker. Transporter. Food seller. Newspaper Vendor. Recharge Card seller. 

The market is open for business.


THIS IS LAGOS! EKO O NI BAJE !

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